posted by Susan Sueiro
For as long as anyone around here can remember (and trust me, that's a while), the end of the grape harvest on Rhinefarm has been celebrated with a big carnitas party. The whole tribe gathers for the feast, bringing families, friends, and delicious foods to the big potluck, staying late to eat, drink and dance despite the first opportunity for a full night's sleep. The tradition is so strong it is the theme of the mural painted along the winery's east wall.
In years past, the vineyard crew would spend the day roasting a pig for carnitas. They'd buy the pig whole, sometimes alive, and even make the chicharron, while home-cooked sides and desserts were brought for the potluck. Music would be provided by a traditional mariachi band in full regalia, many of the men singing along, while much of the sales and winery staff bravely attempted unfamiliar dances. A beautiful party, with generous spirit and sentiment attempting to cross language and cultural barriers on both sides, aided by the transcendent power of tequila.
Times have changed. The party last night was attended by multiple generations of employees, conversations flowing between languages and generations. The wonderful carnitas were prepared by a local caterer and eagerly consumed by all (pairing excellently with the gewurztraminer and merlot I might add, as well as the Dos Equis). Among the platters of Nancy Bundschu's roasted peppers and the many homemade salads and baked pies were a few takeout tubs and store-bought cookies thoughtfully purchased by a desperately busy team. The current vineyard manager prefers a dj to traditional mariachi, and the music crossed all possible genres, often in a single song, bringing everyone to the dance floor. When Jim Bundschu brought out the broom, a hilarious game of hot potato ensued - no one had use for a stand-in partner, but took the opportunity to ham it up a bit with props.
Traditions evolve. There are those who look at life and are nostalgic for past glory days, or lament the pace and changes of modern life. Despite all the history on Rhinefarm, that has never been the culture at Gundlach Bundschu. When it comes to traditions like this celebration, getting everyone together for a big meal is the only requirement. That, and letting the younger people choose the music, which tends to get the place hopping.
Watching the dancers from the perimeter, Jim had a momentary shock when he turned to Jeff and realized that in over 30 years of throwing this party, this was the first time he hadn't brought a bottle of tequila. Hadn't even occured to him. It wasn't missed. Everyone was already celebrating together. Like family does.
