posted by Susan Sueiro
Kids with summer birthdays get jipped. No cupcakes in class, no friends in town for parties. But I never complained, because my birthday was during the peak of lobster season.
Mom always let the kids pick our favorite meal for our birthday dinners. Being winter babies, my siblings chose roasts and potatoes, or mom's famous meatloaf. As far back as I can remember, my birthday dinner was lobster and fresh corn on the cob.
No matter how it is marketed, lobster is not for fancy dining. It should be prepared boiled whole; the clean, split and broiled options are a dry, sad sacrilege. You can't eat lobster neatly. You have to get down and dirty with the thing to really enjoy it, use your fingertips to remove every last bit of meat from the shell, butter dripping to your elbows. At least that is how we did it.
We'd go to the local fishmonger, a bare, concrete storefront containing only the prow of an old ship filled with ice, displaying the morning's catch. Big, boisterous guys in coveralls lugged in plastic tubs filled with sea water and live lobsters, cheaper per pound than hamburger during midsummer months.
I've lived in California for 18 years. I've been disappointed by lobster in restaurants, received half-dead creatures via FedEx as gifts, and spent a small ransom to buy Atlantic lobster locally. Lately I've given up the tradition and enjoyed many wonderful alternative birthday dishes. But still, I've never enjoyed any single meal more than one of those hot summer evenings in the backyard, hair tied back, still wearing a swim suit, nothing but a big red sea bug and a nutcracker on the table. The only way this adult can imagine to improve on that childhood memory would be to add a glass of an exquisite Puligny-Montrachet.


